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| Calodendrum capense |
We had decided to walk the top end of the Fish Eagle trail and head down to the falls in search of much-needed shade. We had not even made it into the reserve before we spotted Dianthus zeyheri (Common pink). The feathery, blush-pink flowers swayed gently in the wind, each showing off a remarkably long, narrow, and cylindrical calyx tube. This unique wildflower belongs to the Caryophyllaceae family. In local traditional practices, it is used to enhance intuitive focus, which was something we all could have used out in that intense heat.
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| Dianthus zeyheri |
We followed the service road a short distance and then turned down towards the stream that flows from the farm dam. Resting directly on a massive Msikaba sandstone boulder, we observed the trailing growth of Rhipsalis baccifera (Mistletoe cactus). The round, reddish-purple fingers were full of pale-cream flowers and unopened yellowish-green buds. This unique cactus is a member of the Cactaceae family. It holds a distinct geographic crown as the only cactus species that occurs naturally outside the Americas, and one theory is that birds carried it across the oceans. Hearing the water gurgling over the rocks was so enticing.
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| Rhipsalis baccifera |
On the opposite bank, we noticed a dense stand of Leucadendron spissifolium subsp. natalense (Natal Spear-leaf Conebush). This architectural, fire-adapted shrub belongs to the Proteaceae family. We crossed the stream, fighting the urge to plunge into the cool water. It was a female bush. The plant’s top leaves shift from green to cream-ivory, an evolutionary trick that turns the upper crown into a single massive “flower” and creates a highly visible beacon for native pollinators while the true flowers remain hidden inside the central dome. What is also quite amazing is that you also find Leucadendron spissifolium subsp. oribinum (Oribi Spear-leaf Conebush) in the reserve. Although these two subspecies grow alongside one another along the sandstone ridges and share the exact same insect pollinators, they do not hybridise. A quick glance at the foliage tells you exactly which one you are looking at: Leucadendron spissifolium subsp. natalense possesses straight, neat, and spear-shaped (oblanceolate) leaves, while Leucadendron spissifolium subsp. oribinum develops leaves that curve strongly to one side, looking like distinct little green crescent moons.
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| Leucadendron spissifolium subsp. natalense |
The veld had not been burnt in this section and the grass was thick. Alf pointed to a small green plant which turned out to be the spathe of a Commelina species with two little green developing fruit capsules. This delicate herb belongs to the Commelinaceae family. Gail spotted a leucistic Athrixia phylicoides (Bushman’s tea). While the flowers typically display bright mauve petals surrounding a yellow centre, this rare leucistic mutation leaves the ray petals completely white. This aromatic shrub belongs to the Asteraceae family. Traditionally, the leaves are brewed into a popular herbal tea or chewed to relieve sore throats, and the woody stems are bundled together to create sturdy outdoor brooms.
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| Developing capsules of Commelina species |
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| leucistic Athrixia phylicoides |
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| Genus Alaena |
On top of a sloping boulder tucked into the shade were some bright Freesia laxa subsp. laxa (Rooipypie). The small, elegant, flat, trumpet-shaped flowers arranged in a horizontal line along a fine spike in scarlet red stood out against the green backdrop. This dainty geophyte belongs to the Iridaceae family. Although they are quite common here they are spectacular. Then something we see in most gardens but seldom in Umtamvuna is the large, bright white flowers of Dietes grandiflora, with their bright yellow nectar guides and violet central segments. This striking perennial belongs to the Iridaceae family, and seeing it out in the wild was a rare treat.
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| Freesia laxa subsp. laxa |
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| Dietes grandiflora |
Then Gail pointed to the shiny mauve leaves of a young Bersama lucens (Glossy white-ash). The glossy, plum-coloured new foliage glowed amongst the dull grass. This unique tree is a member of the Melianthaceae family. There were quite a few of them along the trail and sitting quietly on the leaf of one was a large Praying Mantis. To the side of the trail was a vibrant pink Pigea enneasperma (Spade flower). The species name enneasperma translates from Greek to “nine-seeded,” referencing its dry, three-sided capsule fruits. It is a member of the Violaceae family. This hardy herb has a vast global footprint, tracking natively across tropical and southern Africa, Madagascar, tropical Asia, and Australia. Beyond its wild ecology, the plant is highly sought after in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Modern biochemical researchers actively study the plant today due to its rare specialised circular proteins found within the Violaceae family that offer promising avenues for advanced therapeutic medicine.
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| Bersama lucens |
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| Praying Mantis on Bersama lucens |
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| Pigea enneasperma |
As we followed the winding trail into the forest, ducking down under a fallen Dalbergia multijuga (Hairy flat-bean), we noticed Rhoicissus tridentata (Bushman’s grape) again this week. However, unlike the ones we had seen in the previous weeks, the ones growing on the side of the trail as we entered the forest were a soft, muted green. This sprawling climber belongs to the Vitaceae family.
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| Dalbergia multijuga |
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| Rhoicissus tridentata |
Further along the trail, a Dais cotinifolia (Pompom tree) was starting to flower. The clusters of long, slender pink tubes split at the tips into five star-shaped lobes with tiny, bright yellow anthers catching the light. The delicate pink flowerheads stood out against the darker forest margin. Its exceptionally tough, fibrous inner bark is the inspiration for the common Afrikaans name Kannabast, as that was stripped by early settlers and indigenous groups to twist into high-quality, ultra-strong handmade rope, string, and thread. This showy tree belongs to the Thymelaeaceae family.
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| Dais cotinifolia |
Growing in a gritty crack on the rocks, we spotted Albuca bracteata (Pregnant Onion). This unique, bulbous perennial belongs to the Asparagaceae family. It gets its amusing common name from its distinct reproductive habit: the smooth green bulb sits entirely exposed above the ground, developing dozens of tiny, bumpy daughter bulblets directly underneath its translucent, papery outer layers. However, its harmless appearance is highly deceptive: the sap can severely burn bare skin. Packed with defensive chemicals and microscopic, needle-sharp crystals, the clear juice causes a painful burn—making it a specimen best admired from a safe distance.
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| Albuca bracteata |
We were walking along the cliff edge, much to the dismay of Anne and Hilary. Growing from the forest floor below is an ancient, magnificent Podocarpus latifolius (Real yellowwood). Because it holds such a timeless, permanent presence, you simply cannot pass by without stopping to admire its resilience and grace. This regal conifer belongs to the Podocarpaceae family. Standing high on the cliff top, its canopy was right at eye level, giving us an incredible up-close look at its stiff, strap-shaped, glossy green leaves. Nestled among the rigid foliage were clusters of round, unripe grey-green seeds sitting tightly on short, thickened receptacles.
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| Podocarpus latifolius |
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| Sawfly larvae with parasitic mite |
Further along the cliff edge, sat a Grewia lasiocarpa (Forest Raisin). This fast-growing indigenous shrub belongs to the Malvaceae family. Unlike other members of its genus, it stands out immediately due to its enormous, almost circular leaves that feel rough and sandpapery on top but are covered in a dense, velvety layer of soft hairs underneath. It had one large, star-shaped, pale pink flower adorned with a bright cluster of golden central stamens. The excitement grew as we approached the bend where a Commiphora harveyi (Copper-stemmed Corkwood) stands. This charismatic tree belongs to the Burseraceae family. Even before we reached it, the air carried a distinct citrus scent. As a true corkwood, its crushed leaves and specialized inner bark produce a highly aromatic, resinous oil packed with fragrant terpenes that drift noticeably on the breeze. Standing right beside the trail, its impressive trunk is impossible to miss, wrapped in a silky, metallic copper bark that peels away in large, papery flakes to expose a striking green-bronze underbark underneath.
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| Grewia lasiocarpa |
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| Commiphora harveyi |
We were into the top of the forest and a Mystroxylon aethiopicum (Kooboo-berry) caught my eye. This attractive evergreen tree belongs to the Celastraceae family. Tucked tightly into the axils of its large, alternate, ovate leaves are dense clusters of small, greenish-yellow flowers. Its scientific name holds a lovely piece of history, combining the Greek words mystron (spoon) and xylon (wood) in reference to how early wilderness travelers utilized its tough timber to carve functional wooden spoons, while aethiopicum is a classic botanical descriptor that simply references its native African origins.
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| Mystroxylon aethiopicum |
At this point, we wandered off the trail to the base of a large tree growing on the edge of a small krantz. We could not confirm what it was, so it remains a mystery. Its massive root system was an absolute marvel; unable to penetrate the shallow sandstone, a network of thick surface roots snaked across the forest floor in every direction, twisting and interlocking like ancient wooden cables to anchor the trunk to the rocky edge. Maytenus cordata (Water Silky-bark) is common in this forest and a number of them grew close by. This endemic tree belongs to the Celastraceae family. Its glossy, dark green leaves are immediately recognizable by their heart-shaped (cordate) bases that sit tightly against the twigs. Pale green flowers sprout from the leaf axils. If you gently break one of the leathery leaf blades, it reveals a fascinating trait—tiny, elastic, silvery threads of latex stretch between the severed halves like a delicate spider’s web.
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| Maytenus cordata |
Stepping off the trail had certainly paid off. While we were closely examining the Maytenus cordata, I had noticed the developing fruit capsules of Cassipourea malosana (Onionwood). This glossy-leaved tree belongs to the Rhizophoraceae family—an interesting group, as it’s the very same family that contains coastal mangroves, yet this species thrives beautifully right here in our scarp forest undergrowth. Nestled along the smooth twigs, its small capsules were found still young and green, just beginning to swell. It was right around this moment that Anne called us over to look at something completely unexpected poking through the damp leaf litter. It was an Aseroe rubra (commonly known as the Anemone Stinkhorn or Starfish Fungus). This bizarre, alien-looking organism belongs to the Phallaceae family. The real kicker? This strange organism is not indigenous to South Africa. It has spread to South Africa over the last century, likely arriving via imported timber or mulch. Luckily, it has a benign effect on the local environment.
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| Cassipourea malosana |
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| Aseroe rubra |
A large tree had fallen over, and growing along the decaying trunk were massive, woody Ganoderma brackets. These wood-decaying fungi belong to the Ganodermataceae family. Ganoderma species are masters of white rot; they secrete specialized enzymes that break down lignin and cellulose—the rigid polymers that give a tree trunk its strength. Once a tree has fallen, they quickly move in to decompose the timber and return the nutrients to the soil.
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| Ganoderma bracket |
Admiring these, we noticed the leaves of Drypetes gerrardii (Forest Ironplum). We have seen this tree so many times but never actually noticed such a large one! This impressive specimen belongs to the Putranjivaceae family, and seeing it reach such grand proportions right here in the deep shade was a wonderful reminder of how ancient and undisturbed this scarp forest truly is. On the other side of the fallen tree was a Drypetes arguta (Water Ironplum). Also a member of the Putranjivaceae family, this small tree provided a stark and fascinating contrast to the giant ironwood next to it. Its alternate, glossy leaves were sharply defined by their distinctly serrated, gland-tipped margins. Seeing the two Drypetes species together highlighted the diversity found in the scarp forest.
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| Drypetes gerrardii |
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| Drypetes arguta |
We found ourselves at the top of the waterfall on the Fish Eagle trail. The rocky edge was dry despite all the recent rain, and growing right on the brink was Psilotum nudum. This fascinating, primitive organism belongs to the Psilotaceae family. Lacking true roots or leaves, it is a living relic of evolutionary history, instantly recognizable by its distinct, bright green, skeleton-like branches that fork repeatedly into pairs. Dotted along these ribbed stems were its tiny, yellow, globe-shaped spore capsules (synangia). Spotting this ancient survivor clinging to the dry sandstone was wonderful.
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| Psilotum nudum |
We turned around and started to make our way back to the trail. That’s when I spotted a Bradypodion melanocephalum (Black-headed Dwarf Chameleon). This little reptile belongs to the Chamaeleonidae family. It was perched quietly trying not to be noticed and seeing it was undeniably the highlight of the day. Umtamvuna’s ecotones—where the dense scarp forest gives way to the open veld—are a vital stronghold for these endemic, threatened creatures.
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| Bradypodion melanocephalum |
The next tree we had a look at was Acalypha glabrata (Forest False-nettle). This impressive woody specimen belongs to the Euphorbiaceae family. Finding it here is quite amazing, as most of the Acalypha species we normally see at this time of year are small, fire-adapted grassland perennials not much more than 50cm tall. Seeing this genus taking the form of a proper, leafy understorey tree shows us how scarp forest conditions allow these plant lineages to diversify. We reached the trail and walked down to the bottom of the waterfall where we sat and ate our lunch. Uschi and I walked over to the Gymnosporia harveyana (Black Forest Spikes-thorn), remembering how when we had first noticed it was with Sarel and how the three of us had identified it. Looking closely at its long, slender, straight spines—which can reach up to an impressive 70 mm in length—brought it all back, as examining those formidable spikes was exactly what had helped us secure the identification that day. This member of the Celastraceae family loves these damp, shaded positions right by water, making it a perfect companion for our lunch break.
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| Acalypha glabrata |
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| Down to the falls for lunch |
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| Gymnosporia harveyana |
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| Gymnosporia harveyana |
Alf, Anne and Hilary were heading back up the trail to catch up with Maggie. Gail, Uschi and I wanted to walk a little further along the trail. A little further is never quite what happens with Gail and I and a right turn into the forest took us into part of the forest we had never explored. With the sandstone cliff on our left, we happily walked along looking at Micrococca capensis (Common Bead-string). This delicate understorey specimen is another member of the Euphorbiaceae family. We were fortunate enough to see the distinctive, bead-like lobed capsules that give this species its common name.
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| Micrococca capensis |
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Common Horned Bark Spider
Caerostris sexcuspidata |
When botanising, it is so easy to wander off course as you turn from one plant to the next. That is exactly how we stumbled upon a beautiful specimen of Asystasia varia (Variable Asystasia) nestled on the shaded forest floor. This delicate herb belongs to the Acanthaceae family, and if you think it looks a lot like Mackaya bella, you would be right—they are closely related. In fact, historical botanists actually grouped them together. Mackaya bella was first named and described in 1859 by the famous Irish botanist William Henry Harvey, but because of the extreme similarity in their floral structures, later 19th-century botanists officially moved it into the Asystasia genus as Asystasia bella. It was later separated back into its own unique genus, but seeing them near each other makes it easy to understand why early taxonomists saw such a striking family resemblance.
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| Asystasia varia |
As we excitedly wandered through the forest, we were so amazed at the diversity. Right ahead of us stood a Diospyros natalensis (Acorn Jackal-berry), which is such an attractive tree with its small, alternate, rich green, glossy leaves. This member of the Ebenaceae family features foliage uniquely arranged in a single flat plane. The leaves caught the filtered scarp forest light beautifully and perfectly encapsulated the rich variety of these woods. Just a few steps further, our eyes were drawn to an evergreen shrub that perfectly illustrated this long-lived forest stability: a Rawsonia lucida (Forest-peach). This member of the Achariaceae family features alternate, leathery oblong leaves aggressively defined by deeply serrated, spine-toothed margins. What made this specific specimen so fascinating to look at was the pale, ghostly crust of epiphyllous lichens coating the surface of its older foliage. Because these slow-growing trees favor the deeply shaded, humid interior of the scarp forest, their tough leaves persist for years, transforming each leaf into a tiny, permanent landscape for specialized primitive organisms to colonize.
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| Diospyros natalensis |
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| Rawsonia lucida |
Pushing past the Rawsonia, to the edge where it dropped down to the Umtamvuna River, a troop of Chacma baboons (Papio ursinus) spotted us and immediately began barking warnings. Below us, branches swayed and snapped as the troop moved away. The view was stunning, and we took in each moment. Our eyes caught sight of a Carissa bispinosa (Forest num-num). This hardy shrub belongs to the Apocynaceae family and contains a characteristically milky sap, featuring remarkably broad, large, ovate leaves in the deep forest shade. It is heavily armed with vicious, rigid, Y-shaped spines that fork repeatedly down its stems, providing a formidable defense. It begs the question: are these blooms truly jasmine-scented, or is jasmine actually Carissa-scented?
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| The stunning view we were rewarded with |
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| Carissa bispinosa |
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| Gail and Uschi |
It was at this point that we were abruptly interrupted by the trilling noise of a phone. The sudden electronic ring instantly shattered the peace, pulling us right out of our botany lull. It was time to head back. Alf, Anne, Hilary, and Maggie would meet us back at Maggie’s house. Gail took the lead, coming across some spent Dombeya flowers lying on the forest floor. Uschi would later confirm that the flowers belonged to Dombeya tiliacea (Forest Dombeya). This genus belongs to the Malvaceae family, and features beautifully dark, heart-shaped leaves that persist long after its fragrant white summer blooms have fallen away.
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| Dombeya flowers lying on the forest floor |
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| Uschi's reference |
Our little detour had turned a great day into an extraordinary adventure. This is exactly how we do botany—we learn as we go along, with our boots on the ground, touching, smelling, and sometimes tasting. Every step through the Umtamvuna forest turns textbook descriptions into tangible discoveries, reminding us that the best way to understand these rare ecosystems is to immerse ourselves completely within them.
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| Someone had been hard at work |
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