 |
| Towering sandstone cliffs |
We drove right up to the scarp forest along the edge of the sandstone cliffs. We had our cup of coffee and a quick catch up. It was humid and hot, the sky was a clear blue canvas. The vibrant mauve-pink stems of a Ledebouria asperifolius stood out against the wisps of grass. The smooth, fleshy flower stalk transitioning into a dense, cylindrical cluster of deep pinkish-purple buds. It belongs to the family Asparagaceae.
 |
| Ledebouria asperifolius |
As we wandered, eyes scanning, we chatted away. A Syzygium cordatum (umdoni) twisted, pulling against some unseen force moulding it into something tough and beautiful. Multitudes of long, filamentous stamens sat at the ends of the branches, the tiny, inconspicuous petals having dropped off very early, giving the entire cluster its signature soft, brush-like, cream-coloured appearance. It was fascinating to see how the developing peduncles and pedicels mimic the leaf arrangement, perfectly reflecting the opposite and decussate geometric blueprint of this genus, which belongs to the family Myrtaceae.
 |
| Syzygium cordatum |
Between some boulders in the shade of a tree we looked at Pelargonium capitatum (rose-scented pelargonium). It is a member of the family Geraniaceae. This sprawling shrub has soft, crinkly leaves covered in tiny glandular hairs, which store the rich essential oils that release their sweet fragrance at the slightest touch—and touch it we did! Even the seeds are uniquely adapted for wind and soil security; each elliptic seed is attached to a feathered, tail-like structure that coils into a tight spiral, acting like a mechanical drill to screw the seed safely down into the ground. Locally, the leaves are traditionally used as a soothing skin emollient to treat rashes, dry calluses, and cracked heels, while infusions made from the leaves have historically been used in folk medicine to treat bladder and stomach ailments. This definitely sounds like the perfect friend for a botanist out in the field!
 |
| Pelargonium capitatum |
The very next plant drew attention but not because it is particularly attractive, but because it looked oddly out of place. It was Solanum retroflexum (nastergal), which of course was totally in the right place. Belonging to the family Solanaceae, its delicate, star-shaped white flowers center around bright yellow anther cones. It looked quite modest amidst the surrounding flora, yet its presence reminded us of the sheer diversity tucked into every layer of the reserve. The berries are edible, but only when fully ripe; otherwise, when green, they are poisonous. Once they achieve their characteristic dark, matte-purple finish, they are safely hand-harvested to make the famous, deeply sweet traditional nastergal konfyt.
 |
| Solanum retroflexum |
Clinging effortlessly to the stalk of Pteridium aquilinum subsp. aquilinum (bracken) was a Hyperolius marmoratus (painted reed frog). Fully aware of our presence, it remained perfectly still. This tiny climber belongs to the family Hyperoliidae. To avoid detection by predators during the heat of the day, individuals typically tuck their legs tightly beneath their bodies and remain completely motionless on vegetation, relying on their highly variable, marbled patterns as an absolute mastery of camouflage—but not from the gaze of Dorothy!
 |
| Hyperolius marmoratus |
Dalbergia obovata (climbing flat-bean) is flowering vigorously all over the reserve at the moment and is quite attractive when covered in small, butter-yellow flowers. Part of the family Fabaceae, this native species is a vital nitrogen-fixer for the reserve’s soils. Growing right alongside it was Lauridia tetragona (climbing saffron) with its fresh new red leaves. A member of the family Celastraceae, this multi-stemmed scrambler is easily recognised by its characteristically square, four-angled stems. Its beautiful foliage serves as the vital larval host plant for the Rainforest Acraea butterfly (Acraea boopis), a species heavily dependent on pristine forest margins.
 |
| Dalbergia obovata |
 |
| Lauridia tetragona |
As we moved along the damp forest margins, a beautiful Psoralea arborea (mountain fountain-bush) stood before us. Belonging to the family Fabaceae, this elegant, tree-like shrub produces fine, needle-like green foliage and clusters of blue and white pea-shaped flowers. It naturally prefers these moist, waterlogged habitats along stream banks and forest borders. Further along we passed by a Faurea macnaughtonii (Terblans beech). The red stems seemed to bleed into the central veins and leaves, giving them a warm glow. Belonging to the family Proteaceae, this rare tree is widely celebrated for these elegant, lance-shaped leaves with characteristically wavy margins that beautifully catch the filtered light along the forest margins. It is classified as Rare because it naturally occurs in small, isolated, and highly fragmented pockets across the country.
 |
| Psoralea arborea |
 |
| Faurea macnaughtonii |
The day had just gotten hotter and the humidity was climbing; we were eager to get into the forest. Anne and Alf were already in the forest when Anne shouted that she had found Liparis bowkeri (Bowker’s liparis). We hurried down to see them nestled beautifully in the leaf litter! Their thin, light-green leaves fanned out elegantly with strongly ribbed, longitudinal veins, while upright, unopened flower scapes rose straight from the center of the plants. These pseudobulbs do not grow buried under the soil like normal roots; instead, they sit right above the ground. They belong to the family Orchidaceae. Reaching out to hold onto a tree I found a Rhoicissus species, its trifoliate Leaves held a interesting shape we could not recognise. It belongs to the family Vitaceae, it clambered gracefully along the forest floors, and twirled up nearby trees. The forest floor was covered in damp leaf litter and every mossy rock was slick as glass. Each step had to be carefully planned, but a botanist easily gets distracted by a plant. Sure enough, a misstep sent me skidding right off the end of a boulder. By some miracle, I landed squarely on my feet like a cat, heart pounding.
 |
| Liparis bowkeri |
 |
| Rhoicissus sp. nov. |
Sprayed across the forest floor the little white stars of Chlorophytum comosum (hen-and-chickens / spider plant) is always an enchanting sight. It belongs to the family Asphodelaceae. We were quickly pulled away when Anne found the second Liparis species: Liparis remota (forest fly orchid). Belonging to the family Orchidaceae, this miniature geophyte is easily distinguished from its cousin on the forest floor. While Liparis bowkeri carries heavily ribbed, pleated leaves, Liparis remota features 3 prominent main veins on a distinctly flatter, smoother leaf surface that spreads horizontally over the litter, with its pseudobulbs nestled in the substrate and connected by an extended, creeping rhizome that sends up new vegetative growths a few centimeters apart.
 |
| Chlorophytum comosum |
 |
| Liparis remota |
Anne was being extremely brave moving between two large boulders near the edge to get a look at a fern that always gets us excited because it is so unique. In fact, it is a firmoss and not a fern at all. It was first named in 1782 as the clubmoss Lycopodium gnidioides, but as botanists realized its unique structure was that of a true firmoss, it was moved to Huperzia gnidioides in 1874. It remains widely known by this name in South Africa today. However, modern DNA studies have shown that it belongs to a distinct tropical lineage, leading global databases to transition it to Phlegmariurus gnidioides in 2013. This simply reflects an ongoing conversation among taxonomists as modern science evolves. Belonging to the family Lycopodiaceae, it is a spectacular lycophyte indigenous to our moist South African forests, including right here in the misty depths of the Umtamvuna Nature Reserve. On the side of the same boulder was Vittaria isoetifolia (bootlace fern). Remarkably, this is the only documented species of this genus found natively in South Africa. Belonging to the family Pteridaceae, this unique lithophytic species produces numerous tightly clustered, dark green fronds that hang straight down like long, slender shoestrings. It is perfectly adapted to these shaded rock faces, bearing linear sori tucked away in deep, protective grooves along the very edges of the undersides of the leaves.
 |
Huperzia gnidioides
Photo credit Gail |
 |
| Vittaria isoetifolia |
Out in the grassland, we could still hear the Red-chested Cuckoo calling Piet-my-vrou, Piet-my-vrou—a truly South African soundtrack to a Pondoland C.R.E.W. field trip. The heat out in the open was a sharp contrast to the cool forest canopy. The bright yellow pea flowers of Aspalathus chortophila (impishimpishi) contrasts beautifully against its small, needle-like green leaflets. Belonging to the family Fabaceae, this hardy, low-growing shrublet is perfectly adapted to the dry, sun-drenched landscape. Dorothy and I sat quietly on a rock—well, I say “quietly,” but anyone who knows us knows that Dorothy and I will never be quiet!
 |
| Aspalathus chortophila |
We chatted away about what Dorothy had seen. While we were down exploring the cool, shaded depths of the scarp forest, Dorothy was busy conducting her own botanical treasure hunt. She noted Muraltia lancifolia (umahesaka-onsundu), a hardy South African endemic belonging to the family Polygalaceae. The traditional isiZulu name beautifully captures its appearance, contextually translating to “rough brown sack” to describe its tough, rigid, and brownish ericoid growth habit out on the plains. Right alongside it was Apodytes abbottii (Pondo white pear), a range-restricted and Near Threatened tree of the family Metteniusaceae. This rocky survivor is a master at squeezing its roots into solid sandstone fissures where larger trees could never survive.
 |
Muraltia lancifolia
Photo credit Dorothy |
 |
Apodytes abbottii
Photo credit Dorothy
|
Tucked closer to the edges, she also spotted Tricalysia capensis (forest jackal-coffee), a member of the family Rubiaceae, and the soft, semi-succulent foliage of Plectranthus saccatus (stoep jacaranda), which belongs to the family Lamiaceae. This beautiful mint relative carries its large lilac blooms in specialized sprays that face strictly to one side of the stem, while its leaves feature tiny, translucent gland dots that look like miniature windows when held up to the sun.
 |
Tricalysia capensis
Photo credit Dorothy
|
 |
Plectranthus saccatus
Photo credit Dorothy
|
Dorothy’s sharp eyes also picked out a diverse array of grassland herbs and pea-flowered perennials soaking up the intense summer heat. She recorded Eriosema salignum (umfuthu), a resilient member of the family Fabaceae, alongside the tough, leathery-leaved Gnidia coriacea belonging to the family Thymelaeaceae. Adding to the grassland’s vibrant variety were the parasitic blooms of Striga bilabiata (heather mimic witchweed), part of the family Orobanchaceae. True to its name, this root hemiparasite perfectly mimics surrounding heaths above ground while its hidden underground roots tap into nearby grasses to steal water and nutrients. Finally, she rounded out her list with Anemone afra (African windflower) in the family Ranunculaceae, and a brilliant splash of color from Freesia laxa (false freesia), belonging to the family Iridaceae. It is safe to say her time on top was just as botanically rewarding as our orchid hunt below!
 |
Eriosema salignum
Photo credit Dorothy
|
 |
Gnidia coriacea
Photo credit Dorothy
|
 |
Striga bilabiata
Photo credit Dorothy
|
 |
Anemone afra
Photo credit Dorothy
|
 |
Freesia laxa
Photo credit Dorothy
|
Another forest edge shrub Pseudoscolopia polyantha (false red pear / sandstone red-stem) had finished flowering, the fruits capsules were starting to bulge out of the calyces. Belonging to the family Salicaceae, this remarkable perennial tree is beautifully adapted to these rugged sandstone outcrops and forest margins, showing off its characteristic grey-brown flaking bark and striking red young stems. Its opposite, simple, and leathery leaves feature bluntly toothed margins. We were fortunate enough to capture a close-up of its small, green developing fruit capsules forming in compact heads at the branch tips, perfectly showcasing how the young capsules taper and expand from the center of their persistent floral structures.
 |
| Pseudoscolopia polyantha |
Going back towards the Jimnys and along the edge, we found Brachystelma australe. We had been scouring the rocks for weeks waiting to see these little open, star-shaped maroon flowers. Belonging to the family Apocynaceae, this specialized South African endemic produces long, low-growing, decumbent stems from a small underground caudex that stores moisture against the harsh, sun-drenched conditions of the open reserve. True to its family lineage, the tiny flowers emit a faint, distinct organic scent that mimics decaying material. This pungent mimicry is a clever evolutionary strategy designed to lure in tiny flies and beetles; as the deceived insects crawl inside the star-shaped blooms, their mouthparts or legs catch onto microscopic pollinia traps, ensuring the pollen gets hitchhiked directly to the next hidden plant. Small succulent Delosperma subpetiolatum (grassveld trailing sheepfig) trailed across the sandstone. Belonging to the family Aizoaceae, this Vulnerable South African endemic is a true specialist of these rocky sandstone sheets.
 |
| Brachystelma australe |
 |
| Delosperma subpetiolatum |
We then started to climb down into one of the most precious scarp forests in Umtamvuna, sitting between the grassland on a small shelf before the sandstone cliffs fall down, down into the gorge. Dallying behind, I noticed some Phytolacca octandra (forest inkberry). Belonging to the family Phytolaccaceae, this highly invasive Category 1b weed is a troublesome alien invader that thrives on forest margins. It produces spikes of small greenish flowers that mature into dark, glossy, stain-producing berries. Its presence serves as a constant reminder of why monitoring these fragile, pristine margins is so critical. I pulled it out and hung it out to dry before following the rest into the forest.
 |
| Phytolacca octandra |
Hanging from a Podocarpus species (yellowwood) in an untidy mess, we found Tridactyle bicaudata subsp. bicaudata (iphamba). Belonging to the family Orchidaceae, this robust epiphyte forms large, coarse hanging clumps securely anchored to the host tree’s bark. To stay firmly suspended, it relies on a network of thick grey aerial roots wrapped in a spongy cell layer called a velamen. Where these roots make contact with the tree, they flatten completely like strips of tape to grip the flaking bark. Its elongated woody stems carry numerous leathery leaves arranged in two opposite rows, which grow thinner and flatter in the shade. Small, buff-yellow star-like flowers that erupt along the mature stems.
 |
| Tridactyle bicaudata subsp. bicaudata |
The next flower we saw was the beautiful anomaly Hypoxis membranacea (small white star flower). While it belongs to the family Hypoxidaceae, famous for yellow flowers, this delicate geophyte produces fragile, pure white, six-parted flowers centered with vivid orange-yellow anthers. The pale green, membranous leaves are covered in distinct, fine spreading hairs, allowing it to hide effortlessly in the damp leaf litter of the forest floor where it keeps a low profile, but not this day you could not miss it. Stepping into the forest is otherworldly, and each step you take is carefully placed so as not to leave even footprints.
 |
| Hypoxis membranacea |
Our next discovery was the exquisite Bulbophyllum scaberulum var. scaberulum. Belonging to the family Orchidaceae, this creeping epiphyte produces distinct ovoid or pear-shaped yellow pseudobulbs that crawl along the substrate via a tough, woody rhizome. We photographed it growing directly on the sandstone rocks. Rising straight from the base of these bulbs is a remarkable, erect inflorescence featuring a heavily thickened, flattened, and swollen rachis. The fleshy, deep purple flowers are set alternately in two strict rows along either side of this flattened blade, making it one of the most uniquely structured orchids in the entire reserve. It is truly remarkable.
 |
| Bulbophyllum scaberulum var. scaberulum |
I had gone as far as I could and so turned back, you’ll be amazed what you see the second time around in the shadows or the crook of a tree. Coming back there at the foot of a tree was Liparis bowkeri (Bowker’s liparis) in flower. Its small, translucent green flowers lack true nectar spurs; instead, they create a clever illusion. Their lateral petals are modified into narrow, thread-like structures that protrude directly below the sepals, giving the impression of two distinct spurs.
 |
| Liparis bowkeri |
 |
| A spent seed capsule of Liparis bowkeri |
Anne and I passed each other, Anne pointing to Clutia abyssinica var. nov. Belonging to the family Peraceae, this species has large alternate leaves that are covered in velvety hairs, small almost translucent white flowers grew from the leaf axils. It is really quite different from others Clutia species. In the understory, I was so excited to see Syzygium gerrardii (forest waterberry / isiduli). Belonging to the family Myrtaceae, having seen Syzygium cordatum earlier made this find even better. While both species share this “powder-puff” look, Syzygium gerrardii carries much smaller, more delicate, and highly fragrant clusters. This impressive forest specialist features glossy, lance-shaped dark green leaves that narrow into distinct, drawn-out tips, bearing these compact clusters of tiny white filamentous stamens at the branch tips to release a sweet scent that drifts softly through the shaded understory. Earlier we had seen the fresh growth, and now Anne pointed out the small, inconspicuous flowers of Lauridia tetragona.
 |
Clutia abyssinica var. nov
|
 |
| Syzygium gerrardii |
 |
| Lauridia tetragona flowers |
We sat in the cool forest, listening to the Red-chested Cuckoo still lamenting Piet-my-vrou while we ate our lunch. With happy hearts, we packed away our lunch containers, then began to leave the forest. We leave a small part of ourselves in that forest, perhaps to let it root there until our return. While we made our way out of the forest, we noticed small four petaled white flowers with a whisper of pink. On closer inspection, we realized it was Ekebergia pterophylla (rotsessenhout). Belonging to the family Meliaceae, this evergreen species features compound, leathery leaves with a distinctively winged central stalk, making it a highly characteristic specialist along these rocky forest margins.
 |
| Ekebergia pterophylla |
Back out in the open we meandered along the edge, admiring stunning lichens clinging to the exposed tree branches. A Protorhus longifolia was full of large bunches of plump plum-coloured drupes sitting against shiny dark green leaves. What a show. Out on the sandstone pavement, Delosperma vinaceum (wine-colored ice plant) sat almost hidden between the grass, with its bright magenta flowers fully open to the sun. Belonging to the family Aizoaceae, this tough succulent forms compact, ground-hugging mats directly over the bare sandstone sheets. Its fleshy, cylindrical green leaves carry a subtle frosted shimmer that reflects the intense heat, providing a striking contrast against the brilliant flushes of its daisy-like flowers. We looked over at the waterfall, expecting to see water thundering down to the gorge far below after all rain, but there was only the smallest stream.
 |
| Crocodia aurata (Golden-edge Specklbelly) |
 |
| Usnea species (Old man's beard) |
 |
| Protorhus longifolia |
 |
| Delosperma vinaceum |
 |
| A trickle of water |
Below us on the next ledge, we noticed familiar star-shaped flowers on zigzag stems, but in crisp white: Hesperantha hygrophila. They belong to the family Iridaceae, this dainty cormous geophyte is a specialised water-lover that grows on these damp rocky seeps. In contrast to these gorgeous pristine white flowers a little further there were hundreds of Bidens pilosa (Black Jack) seedlings. We stopped to pull them out preventing thousands of seeds from choking out the next generation of rare grassland plants.
 |
| Hesperantha hygrophila |
 |
| Alf and Anne removing Bidens pilosa |
Slowly we made our way back to the Jimnys. There were so many Crassula vaginata growing in the grass in an array of yellow and copper hues. It looked like a scene that Vincent van Gogh might have painted. At the Jimnys, Gail brought out a slab of dark chocolate and suddenly, by a miracle, we were all for a moment quiet—but a very brief moment. The day had come to an end, another successful day botanising. We were hot and a little grubby, but that’s a Thursday for you.
 |
| Crassula vaginata |
 |
Pondoland C.R.E.W.
Anne Skelton, Gail Bowers-Winters, Alf Hayter, Uschi Teicher,
Hilary Henderson, Dorothy McIntyre, Tracy Taylor
Photo credit Gail |
